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Well….the 2018+ ones had it as a factory option haha. That’s where the part number comes from. Mine just didn’t have it cuz it’s a 2015

The head unit adapter has a remote wire connection as well. Mine turns off after a couple of minutes after the car is off and locked.

Yup! Most newer ones come with just a usb cable and then a usb->cigarette adapter so you can do it either way.

@RobsHouse thank you mate! I just ordered 3 of these crosstour dashcams off their website for 50 bucks not bad at all! I will be setting up my civic like you , thanks for the video mate!

I have no idea. Never used the MSD.

This box makes you just pick an RPM to limit at. So, it's not the same as a momentary anti-lag that works at any RPM. You can just set whatever RPM you want on the box, and itll limit to that RPM. Best way to do it is just pick a speed and gear you like to launch from, see what RPM you're at. Let's say you launch at 50 mph and the gear you like to launch from puts you around 3600 RPM, just set your limit to 3500 or 3600. Then you can just get into that gear, hold the button, floor it (it'll limit to that 3500 or 3600 whatever you set), and then just release the button when you're ready.

Right now it’s set up as a two-step and activated by the clutch dump. How would I change it so that it’s activated by a button for anti lag?

Awesome! Glad it helps. It shouldn't require additional wiring on the Lariat. It's straight forward. Just take your time when you do the FORScan portion. Make sure you preserve your existing functionality while adding the new functions the guide tells you to add.

@@RobsHouse Hi Rob. When you say "doesn't require extra wiring", you still mean the harness for the bumper is required, right? I have a '24 XLT with the 360 camera, so not sure what will be required. Guess I have to tear into it. Thanks!

@@wy2sl0 sorry, the bumper harness is always required. The extra wiring is what I mention toward the end of the video. Any trims below the Lariat will need additional wiring from the bumper connector into the IPMI module. The lariat already has this because ACC is offered as an option on the Lariat. So for joshua4411, he will only need the bumper harness. For an XLT, you will need to do some additional wiring as described in the forum thread I linked to. Start around page 3 or 4 and read for that information :)

Mine is a Lariat

Good! Looks brand new still.

Active exhaust wasn't an option until 2018+ if i remember correctly. This tutorial is for retrofitting the 2018+ digital dash to a 2015-2017 car.

Yeah you'll have to play with it a bit. My car is supercharged, so copy/paste might not work on an NA vehicle. The concepts are the same though!

If they won't clear, you probably enabled something that you're not equipped with in FORScan

Sorry did see that part, did you have to drill from the trunk to get wiring into the wheel well?

yes

I don’t remember honestly. Been so long since I did it. Pretty sure the new pads came with new shims. You mean the metal ones that the pads slide into?

Ahhh yeah happens. The fronts seem to go out relatively often on these cars sadly. That’s what we get for driving race cars! Haha

Thanks!

Thanks bro! I’m excited to see u soon :)

Trufiber

I like this one. I also like the darker blue with a black/tan interior.

Totally agree. How's the carbon quality from EOS on the hood? I have their carbon fiber halo on my car and it doesn't look great next to the OEM GM carbon Targa that I have. That would be my only concern.

Yeah I’m not on the rally this year

Well, I have a Corvette so....

Its possible to do both lol. There is a ton of heat build up when you bang the limiter like that, so you don't want to sit on it for too long.

This video is a couple of years old. I’m not on the rally this year

Were they working with the factory side marker bulbs prior to installation? Did you buy from vette-lights or did you buy something random of amazon/ebay? LEDs can be finicky, especially when you plug them into circuits not designed for them. Sometimes, additional resistors are needed to make them behave properly, such as older cars where you replace headlights and turn signals with LEDs and you don't want them to flicker or the blinkers to blink fast as though there is a bulb outage. I bought from vette-lights because they are reputable and I knew everything would just work out of the box.

Worth noting that on the Roush, half the MPs are completely disabled from the factory (MP0-13). IMRC is also disabled because it has a supercharger, not the stock intake manifold. I believe the two are correlated. Some of the lower number map points are used from the factory, but then are disabled in aftermarket boosted applications. You have to check your MP scheduling and see what is enabled at idle. I used 11 because the cam angles were what I wanted and it was previously disabled. So, I knew it wouldn't be commanded elsewhere. In your case, you probably have more than one MP that is able to be commanded at idle, so it's oscillating. You need to figure out when MP0-1 are enabled at idle conditions and disable that. Also confirm in a log that you're using 'dashpot' at idle. If it's switching between dashpot and something else, something is wrong.

No thanks

Yeah unfortunately you'll need to do that extra step. I believe on that thread people figured out which pinned wires to order from ford. So, you could just buy those, plop them right into the associated pins in the connector, and then you have a bare wire you can solder to once you run a bunch of wire through the firewall and whatnot.

That’s what I’m doing right now… about to hook everything back up and test. Going from ccm to ipma should work. My xlt had the ccm wiring already

@@RobsHouse yes turns out I have the 4 wires in the ipma female side of the harness so I think I’m going to take the ccm plug and wires from new harness and just pin them into existing ipma male side. I’m a little worried about depinning crimping and doing that as it’s my first time

Oh wait... I see your other video where you described adding wheels

I appreciate the support! Yeah I think you'll need to do the extra wiring unfortunately. It doesn't look super difficult. Just time consuming removing trim panels and running the wires. The wheels are American Force DC01 Vibrants. They're 22x12 with a -55 offset. Tires are 33s (Nitto Recon Grapplers). 33x12.5. They fit well, but you do have to trim the pinch weld behind the wheel and a small bit of the front bumper and bumper liner. As for the lift, it's not lifted. It's just the Roush full suspension upgrade which comes preset for a 2 inch front level. So, it's leveled, but not lifted.

Doing this mod on my xlt now and I’ve referred to this video numerous times. Thanks again. I created a pigtail to add into my current harness.. adding crimping pins and hopefully all goes well. Also nice guitar playing …I’ve been in a lot of metal bands over the years (singer and guitarist …\m/

@@johnnyutah8374 I'm glad it helped man! And thanks! I've been playing since I was 10 haha. Music has always been a huge part of my life. Plenty more music content coming too :)

Yeah that boot is a bitch with those rivets. The IPSCO shifter kit came with push pins to replace the rivets, but I still needed to order a new shift boot because I destroyed it while getting those rivets out :( Glad the content is helping! I have some more coming soon with the Viper!

If you have your own HP Tuners device and you have a wideband installed in the car, yes lol. Where are you located?

Thank you! I'm glad they were helpful. I am going to be doing a big build on that car soon. Lots more content to come :)

Yeah a lot of stuff like that varies from generation to generation. That's not even unique to ford. The C7 Corvette, for example, has about 4 different configurations of driver demand tables. It's either accelerator vs rpm or accelerator versus vehicle speed and then the units are either pound feet of torque at the flywheel or pound feet of torque at the axle after final drive multiplier. Very annoying to deal with because you never know what configuration you're going to get. The fundamentals are the same, but you just have to adapt each time you tune one.

@@RobsHouse very true, and also very annoying lol. I've done a very similar ghost cam tune, followed your video and tried some settings. It works great up until operating temp - at which point it commands MP0 in what I assume is emissions reduction. But when this occurs, it never leaves MP0 while driving. 100% weighted on MP0. Any ideas? I'm sure there's something simple I've missed, but info on gen4 F150 tuning is slim at best right now.

@@RobsHouse and also when it's doing that - MP0 at operating temp - it's still using the limited timing at idle, 23 degrees or so.

Yeah I’m not sure. I go over how to force it into optimal stability mode or whatever mode you want to do the ghost cam in. But I’m in a gen 2 platform so there might be more tables for the gen 4

I'm glad I could help! A lot of these older 'how to' videos seem to be helping people more recently, so I'll likely get back to uploading more of this style of content moving forward.

i dont have that problem at all. You sure you don't have an exhaust leak?

@@RobsHouse yah I looked doesn’t seem like it I legit just put it on less then 2 hrs ago

Single activation wire. The unit itself gets powered off the Coil Pack wires. It plugs in-line into every ignition coil.

@@RobsHouse just hooked mine up yesterday and figured it out

I gets replaced. I show that in the video.

Yes but does it have to be? Will it work without replacing it or some of the buttons replaced?

@@nc-boe951 I have no idea. You'd have to ask the people that sell the kit. I'm sure there is a reason, but I'm not sure what functionality would be lacking if you didn't have the upgraded clock tower and buttons.

@@RobsHouse Ok thanks. One more question. When you install this does it automatically update with your cars current mileage?

These are factory components from a newer mustang, so i think that absolutely nothing will happen. Ford sells cars in Texas as well as Alaska. Every car that even has so much as electronic fuel injection has a computer in it. They are designed to withstand extreme temperatures... And I live in Eastern Tennessee. I say this in videos all the time.

Thank you!

Yup you can roll it forward. That's exactly what I had to do. Just google how to do it. I don't remember which menu its in. It's very easy to do though.

Yes! Newer systems like the newer Mustangs and the Gen 5 General Motors engine platforms rely on torque management to pull timing in a smooth manner to transition to fuel cut. If you just put insanely low timing numbers in your spark tables, you'll have two issues. First off, your car will jerk really badly as soon as you let off the gas because it will not smoothly retard the timing. It'll just go from 30-50 degrees immediately down to -10 or whatever you have it set to. Second, depending on the torque system, the torque management may actually fight you! For example, on GM vehicles, the torque management will actually add timing because it thinks your timing value is too low which will cause back and forth spark oscillations between your negative values and whatever it adds. So -10 to +20 back to -10 back to +20, etc etc. The car will jerk back and forth violently. I tried this method the first time I tried to burble tune my Corvette and it drove like absolute garbage. I then later did a video where I show how to modify the torque management system to get it to pull the timing for you and give you pops. The other thing that can happen depending on how much tuning resolution you have in the spark table is that when you roll back onto the gas, you'll get massive hesitation until the cylinder airmass reaches a level beyond where you put the negative values for the burbles. So you cant roll back onto the accelerator gently. You'll feel like the car doesn't want to move. It is best to leave the main spark tables alone, adjust the minimum tables so that the ECM is allowed to pull a lot of timing (conditions permitting), and then play with the torque systems to get it to pull timing ONLY on deceleration (0% accelerator). That way, as soon as you touch the gas (even 1%), your car drives like normal!

Thanks man!

To my knowledge, no.

Thanks man!

Thanks man! It’s a Carbon Creations hood. Fitment is kind of meh honestly

@@RobsHouse looks good though! Have you checked out ACS Composite C7 XL Front Fender Extensions. Expensive, but they are in carbon flash metallic. Fitmit is also a bit annoying because it's 2 pieces.

Darwin pro makes a carbon fibor one. - Carbon Fiber Fender Flares. Can't speak to the quality but they make a cool looking hood and some other stuff

It's still working great!

Not sure I understand the question. My mileage is correct. It was off by 1 mile when I programmed it. Not sure why FORScan can't get it exactly right, but it doesn't really matter. It's close enough.